In winter, warm shower air condenses on cold windows, walls and ceilings. If the mirror stays fogged or the fan drips, check that the fan vents outside rather than into the attic, that its duct is insulated where it crosses a cold attic, and that it runs for at least 30 minutes after a shower. Health Canada recommends keeping indoor humidity between 30 and 50 per cent.
Why the problem shows up in winter
A hot shower puts a lot of water into the air. In summer, most of it stays in the air until the fan or an open window takes it away. In winter, the bathroom is full of cold surfaces: the window, the outside wall, and a ceiling under an attic that may be well below freezing. When warm, humid air touches them, it turns back into water. That’s the fog on the mirror, the drops running down the window and the damp patch that appears on the ceiling every January.
Tighter houses make it more noticeable. Health Canada notes that energy-saving measures that make a house more airtight can raise indoor humidity when there isn’t enough ventilation. New windows, fresh caulking and weatherstripping are good for the heating bill, but they also close the small leaks that used to let moist air escape, so the bathroom fan has to do more of the work.
A little condensation that clears quickly is normal. Condensation that hangs around for an hour, drips from the fan or leaves marks on the paint means moisture is staying in the room, and that’s how mould gets its start. Mould behind old tile is a common find when an older bathroom is opened up, which is why we take the fan as seriously as the tile.
Signs your bathroom is holding on to moisture
Watch for these over the next few cold weeks. One on its own may be nothing; several together usually point to a ventilation problem.
- The mirror is still fogged long after the shower ends
- Water drips from the fan grille, or a brown ring appears on the ceiling around it
- Paint is peeling or bubbling on the ceiling or above the shower
- Black or grey spots in the grout and caulking keep coming back after cleaning
- Water collects on the window sill or runs down the tile
- There’s a musty smell, especially in a bathroom without a window
- Towels never quite dry
What’s behind it, and what usually fixes it
Most winter bathroom condensation comes down to one of these causes, and often more than one at once. When we look at a bathroom with this problem, we work down this list.
| Cause | What you notice | The usual fix |
|---|---|---|
| The fan doesn’t run long enough | It clears some steam, then the mirror fogs again once it’s off. | Health Canada recommends running the fan for at least 30 minutes after a shower or bath. A timer or a humidity-sensing switch makes that automatic. |
| The fan vents into the attic | Frost or damp insulation in the attic above the bathroom, sometimes mould on the roof boards. | The duct has to end outside. Health Canada says bathroom fans should vent outdoors, not into the attic. |
| An uninsulated duct crosses a cold attic | Water drips from the grille on cold days, even though the fan is running. | Warm air cools inside the duct and the water runs back toward the fan. An insulated duct, sealed and sloped, with a short run outside, solves it. |
| The fan is weak, worn out or too loud | Steam barely moves. A noisy fan often gets switched off early. | A properly sized, quieter fan that people are happy to leave running. |
| No air can get into the room | The fan hums, the door is tight to the floor and not much happens. | A fan can only pull out air that gets replaced. A gap under the door or a transfer grille lets air in. |
| The outside vent is blocked | Weak airflow even with a new fan. | Check the hood outside. The flap should open when the fan runs, with no lint, nests or ice holding it shut. |
Quick checks you can do this week
None of these need tools beyond a stepladder and a little patience, and they tell us a lot if you later ask us to look at the room.
- Test the airflow
Hold a single square of toilet paper up to the grille while the fan runs. If the fan can’t hold it against the grille, it isn’t moving much air.
- Find where it vents
Go outside while the fan is on and look for the vent hood on the wall, roof or soffit. If you can’t find one, or its flap doesn’t move, the air may be going into the attic.
- Look in the attic
If you can reach the attic hatch safely, look above the bathroom for a duct that ends in the insulation, or for frost and damp patches on the underside of the roof.
- Measure the humidity
An inexpensive hygrometer tells you where the house sits. Health Canada recommends keeping indoor relative humidity between 30 and 50 per cent.
- Change a few habits
Run the fan for at least 30 minutes after showering, leave the door open a crack afterwards, and squeegee the shower walls, as Health Canada suggests.
Windows, outside walls and the rest of the house
Bathroom condensation isn’t always a bathroom problem. If every window in the house fogs on cold mornings, the whole house may be too humid. Check whether a furnace humidifier is set too high, and remember that drying laundry indoors adds a lot of moisture, as Health Canada points out. On very cold days, turning the humidifier down a notch is often enough to stop the windows streaming.
In the bathroom itself, Health Canada suggests keeping blinds and curtains open so warm room air can reach the glass, and drying the sills and frames so water doesn’t sit on them. A window inside a shower is a special case. It gets soaked every day and it’s often the coldest surface in the room, which makes it hard to keep dry no matter how good the fan is.
A cold outside wall can also collect moisture, especially behind a vanity or a linen cabinet where air doesn’t move. Leaving a little space behind furniture helps. If the wall feels cold to the touch and the marks keep coming back, the insulation in that wall may be missing or poor, and that’s something we’d fix when the room is renovated.
Mould: what you can clean and when to call for help
Health Canada sorts mould by size. A small area is three patches or fewer with a combined area under one square metre, and it can usually be cleaned with proper precautions and protective equipment. A medium area, meaning more than three patches or between one and three square metres, calls for an expert assessment, although it may still be cleaned with care. A single patch larger than three square metres needs an expert to assess it and clean it up.
Two points matter more than the cleaning. First, fix the moisture, or the mould comes back. Second, don’t paint over it. Health Canada is clear that painting over mould doesn’t kill it or stop it from growing; it only hides it for a while. If the mould is under the paint, the drywall needs to come out and be replaced.
Grout and caulking are usually the first places mould shows up in a bathroom. Health Canada recommends repairing or replacing cracked or damaged tile, grout and caulking around tubs and showers. Once water gets behind them, the problem is no longer just on the surface.
Fan upgrades that actually help
If the checks point to the fan, a better one is often a modest job. What makes the difference isn’t only the fan in the ceiling but the whole path the air takes. A fan sized for the room and quiet enough that nobody minds leaving it on, with a timer or humidity control, gets used properly. The duct should be as short and straight as possible, sealed at the joints, insulated where it passes through a cold attic and sloped so any condensation runs outside, ending at an exterior hood with a damper.
Where the fan sits matters too. One installed far from the shower, over the door or in a corner, pulls dry air from the hallway instead of the steam. Moving it closer to the shower usually means opening the ceiling, which is easier to plan when we’re redoing the bathroom anyway.
Wiring a new fan, a timer or a humidity control is electrical work. In Ontario, almost all electrical work has to be reported to the Electrical Safety Authority, and anyone you hire to do it must by law be a Licensed Electrical Contractor.
When it’s time for a renovation, not a new fan
Sometimes the condensation is the symptom and the bathroom itself is the problem. That’s the case when tiles are loose or the grout keeps cracking and letting water through, when mould comes back after a proper clean, when the ceiling or the wall behind the tub is soft or stained, or when there’s no exhaust fan at all and no easy route for a duct to the outside.
A renovation lets us fix the causes together: a waterproofing system behind the shower tile, insulation in a cold outside wall, a fan in the right place with a proper duct, and finishes that cope with moisture. If you’re considering it, our bathroom renovation page explains layouts, fixtures and pricing, and our tile work page covers what goes under the tile.
Winter is a good time to plan the job, because you can see exactly where the condensation collects. Take photos on the worst mornings; they show us where the problems are better than any description.
Related reading
More on bathrooms, tile and keeping a GTA home comfortable through the winter.
Frequently asked questions
How long should a bathroom fan run after a shower?
Health Canada recommends at least 30 minutes after a shower or bath. A timer switch or a humidity-sensing control takes care of it, so nobody has to remember.
Why does my bathroom fan drip water in winter?
Usually because warm, moist air cools inside a duct that runs through a cold attic, and the water runs back down to the fan. Insulating and sloping the duct, or shortening it, normally fixes it. Check that it really vents outside, too.
What humidity should my house be in winter?
Health Canada recommends 30 to 50 per cent relative humidity indoors. If your windows stream on cold mornings, try bringing it down toward the lower end of that range.
Can I paint over mould on my bathroom ceiling?
No. Health Canada says painting over mould doesn’t kill it or stop it from growing back. Fix the moisture problem, clean small areas properly, and replace drywall where the mould is under the paint.
Is it okay for a bathroom fan to vent into the attic?
No. The fan should vent outdoors. Moist air dumped into an attic can lead to frost, damp insulation and mould on the roof structure.
Further information
Read next
Project planning
How to compare renovation estimates without missing the scope
A practical checklist for comparing inclusions, allowances, exclusions and change procedures before choosing a renovation proposal.
Read the guide →Project planning
Drafty house? Fix air leaks and insulation while the walls are open
Fall is when drafts show up. If you’re renovating, open walls and ceilings are the cheapest moment to air-seal and insulate, and the order you book things in decides whether energy rebates still apply.
Read the guide →Project planning
A fall checklist to keep water out of your basement before the spring thaw
Leaves, frozen downspouts and spring meltwater are when GTA basements take on water. Work through this checklist in October and November, while the ground is still soft.
Read the guide →Let’s talk about your project.
Tell us about your plans, property and preferred timing.
